Where Science Meets Taste Buds
Pizza aficionado impartially evaluates Tony’s Pizza,
House of Pizza, Café Vesuvius and Mino’s Roast Beef
Story by Bette Keva
Photos by Trevor Radomski
When Trevor Radomski, age 21, of Rochester, New York came to Marblehead to visit his girlfriend, Alysa Eizenga, age 22, over spring break, he found himself with enough free time that he naturally decided to fill it by eating all the pizza he could find.
The 6’2”, 185-pound cyber security major from Rochester Institute of Technology couldn’t believe his luck in being able to amble around this quaint, Colonial-era town and find one pizza joint after the next. With a week to immerse himself in gastronomic research before boarding the Amtrak back to New York, the lanky 21-year-old scholar set out to taste two slices of pepperoni pizza in as many greasy spoons as he could find in Marblehead’s Historic District.
But first, it’s helpful to know from whence came Trevor. His campus at RIT boasts seven to ten eateries (15 if you’re counting cafes, convenience stores and a wall of vending machines). But are RIT’s restaurants comparable to what we have here in Marblehead where no fast food dare enter; where McDonald’s, Burger King, KFC, Subway and other such pre-made, takeaways are kept outside of the town’s borders?
“I was struck by the fact that there are no chains here. In Henrietta where RIT is, it’s hard to find out about family-owned restaurants,” said Trevor. “We have three colleges so it’s a breeding ground for chains. The three main roads connecting the colleges are dense commercial strips. Family-owned is scare. No one-off restaurants. This is a nice change of pace. Every slice from each of the four restaurants — Tony’s Pizza, House of Pizza, Café Vesuvius and Mino’s Roast Beef — was different.”
However, the pepperoni at all four restaurants basically tasted the same, so they are not in this evaluation, which includes: crust, tomato sauce, cheese, price, ease of ordering and paying.
In his own words, here is Trevor’s assessment.
Tony’s Pizza, 1 School Street (781) 639-8669.
Crust: Thin, not crunchy, floppy (not in a bad way). There’s an audience for that (including me), and for that, Tony’s is your place.
Sauce and cheese was the right amount – not too much. It was greasy. You have to fold it in half to eat, but it’s good. I like those slices.
Price: $6 for 2 slices.
Ordering: Not tech friendly, but you can call.
House of Pizza, 7 Atlantic Ave., (781) 631-4898.
Crust: Thicker than Tony’s, in fact, it was the thickest crust of all four; I wouldn’t say crunchy, but crisp and airy. It can support itself on its way into your mouth. It has a noticeably flavorful crust. I don’t know what the flavors are; the others were just bread. Best crust by far. (House of Pizza is similar to Pizza Hut for the dough.)
Sauce and cheese were average. Sauce to bread ratio was very good. In a doughy slice, you don’t want too little sauce or else you taste too much bread.
According to the restaurant, Marblehead House of Pizza is Greek style. It is not a chain and is family owned.
Price: $5 for 2 slices.
Ordering: This cash-only restaurant had the best price probably because of that reason. But cash-only can be a problem for someone who’s traveling, especially internationally. It isn’t tech-friendly because it’s cash only; no Apple pay and no website.
Café Vesuvius, 18 Bessom Street, (781) 639-8120
Crust: good; not as good as House of Pizza, which was the best.
Sauce and cheese: very flavorful and evenly cooked. The ratio of sauce to cheese to bread is good.
It’s my favorite because of the overall flavor.
Ordering: I didn’t order online; I just walked in.
Mino’s Roast Beef, 27 Atlantic Ave. (781) 631-7228
Crust: Compared with the others, it was middle-ground thickness. The taste was good but the bread wasn’t flavored.
Cheese: too much for my liking.
Sauce: average
Overall Mino’s is most similar to Domino’s, and not unique. It was the most average in all categories.
Ordering: Mino’s was the most tech-savvy with online ordering. We ordered without talking to anyone. Put a card in online, select toppings and be done with it. People our age like online ordering without talking in person.
Reflecting on his nine-day stay in Marblehead, Trevor said, “I’ll remember the walking. It’s a big change from a driving city. Having pizza destinations forced me to walk through town. In Rochester, I have to decide where to eat, make a phone call and then drive at least 10 minutes. Here, you don’t have to decide. You walk and then go into a restaurant. I enjoyed the slices from all four restaurants.”
While Rochester is suburban and not walkable, the RIT campus is. “Salsaritas, Mexican food like Chipotle, is the highest quality food on campus, the healthiest without going full vegetarian. Everything else is fryers, subs, chicken fingers, pizza, Indian and sushi,” said Trevor.
On breaks from school, Trevor gets home-cooked meals from his grandmother. But just as often, he’ll buy a pizza and “go back to my nana’s house, eat and play board games.”
Alysa, from Ontario, Canada, and Trevor met at RIT. The science-minded young woman put together the stacked column pizza datasheet. A bio-medical engineering student, she is doing an internship at Abiomed in Danvers, a company founded by David M. Lederman who lived in Marblehead and passed away here in 2012.
What would RIT President David C. Munson Jr., say about his students delving into the world of pizza reviews? Perhaps, something like this: RIT is one of the top universities in the nation working at the intersection of technology, the arts and pizza. We are a university that is shaping the future and improving the world through creativity and pizza tasting. We put a high value on bringing goodness to the world. And how better to do that, than to send emissaries to the far reaches of the nation to selflessly roam the streets of say, Marblehead, in search of a great-tasting lunch!
Ha! Thoroughly enjoyable piece, in more ways than one! My favorite, however, is MARBLEHEAD HOUSE OF PIZZA! Hands down, the best in the ‘Head.
I agree, Caryn. Love them greasy slices.
Thanks to each of you (Betty, Trevor & Alysa) for this informative and insightful article. I am filing it in my “If we ever get to Marblehead” folder for future reference. Two of our favorite pizzas are WHITE pizza (garlic & oil smeared liberally on the crust,) add toppings and cheese and PINK pizza (blend red sauce with garlic and oil), add toppings and cheese. I think it is quite impressive that this young man spent his spring break on an independent research project. I predict he will go places after graduation (maybe Marblehead?) I especially loved that he managed to get TWO references to his Nana in there.
Loved your piece including two of my most favorite people in the world! Thank you Bette. This made my day.
Warm Wishes,
Amanda Radomski-Dunsmore
I lived in Marblehead over 50 years ago, so I can just picture Trevor roaming the narrow, hilly streets in its historic district. Glad to see that the pizza offerings have improved over the decades.
You missed a pizza place in Marblehead, Fresca Pizza on Atlantic Ave. They have wood fired pizza! You’ll have to add to your piece when you return.